2022 Pannell, Grenache "Smart" *ETIKET

Denne rene Grenache fra 67 år gamle stokke i Clarendon fra Smart-familien buskvine er en sensation. Marken er den højestbeliggende Grenache-mark i McLaren Vale, og Smart familien behandler stokkene på skånsom vis - de vandes ikke og alt arbejde er håndarbejde. Gæret i et åbent stålfad med 10 dages maceration inden presningen. Efter 14 dages hvile i stål blev vine lagret i et stort 2800 liters 9 år gammelt brugt fransk fad og 2 små 500 liters fade, hvor malolatisk gæring og lagring skete over 11 måneder inden tapningen, som skete uden nogen form for indgriben - kun minimal svovltilsætning. Den højaromatiske luftige næse med kølige jordbær, hindbær, salvie, støv af engelsk lakrids, tranebær, blomster og granatæble er rørende smuk. Smagen er dernæst helt vidunderlig, mageløs ren og fuldstændig elektrisk pirrende med sin kortbølgede modne syre og en tannin så fin som støv, som får den dybe, diskret sødmefulde frugt til at danse på tungen. Suverænt balanceret, noget så fantastisk ren og detaljeret, indsmigrende og kølig på samme tid, er dette igen Grenache i absolut verdensklasse. (-2040+) *****

96+ points Robert Parker Wine Advocate: "The 2022 Smart Grenache is, like the Old McDonald Grenache, from a dry-grown bush-vine vineyard, yet this one is from higher climes, up in Clarendon. This area tends to favor darker, deeper wines, and if you ever have the chance to get there, might I politely suggest you bend heaven and earth to do so. It is a stunning part of the world. As for the wine, this is pure and scintillating in its line of red and purple fruits; the spice that colors its edges leans toward star anise, pink peppercorns, a suggestion of mustard seed, saffron and strawberry. The tannins are superb—just superb. They are chewy, ductile and yet ultra fine. This is the kind of Grenache you can really sink your teeth—and heart—into. This is excellent, truly. "

96 points James Suckling: "An excellent vintage, low yielding, cool and attenuated. Scents of spiced Damson plums, wood, berries, graphite and almond husks, with iron notes and tannins in the long, streamlined finish. From a wonderful old-vine site in Clarendon that stretches the possibilities of grenache. Wonderful stuff built for the cellar. "

96 points James Halliday: "From 67-year-old vines in Clarendon. Typically, this is the prettiest of the Pannell non-estate grenache pair, but the 2022 vintage has its say. It was a cool year, but one of particular tannic fortitude. And when paired with an energetic line of acidity, this is a release to hold for a bit. Quality and character stand firm, though. Dried cranberry and raspberry, sour cherry and sumac, rhubarb, burnt orange, toasted cinnamon and rose. It’s all there, just bound up presently, a little nervy, but it will no doubt tumble out in the mid-term. It’s a fine expression more in a nebbiolo state of mind.