2017 Van Zellers & Co, Vintage Port

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    2017 er en stor, stor årgang i Douro for både hvidvine, rødvine og portvine. Cristiano van Zeller havde måske sit livs årgang og denne Vintage Port er fantastisk. Kulsort i glasset og helt mættet i farven viser den en opulent og voldsomt eksplosiv næse med intens lakrids, brombær, solbær, konfekt, estava-busk, kirsebæressens, tjære og violer. Tæt, potent, righoldig og cremet i sin tekstur pga. den enorme koncentration og udstyret med en fantastisk syre og vidunderligt raffineret ekstraherede tanniner, er dette fuldstændig fremragende Vintage Port. Syrens eventyrlige klasse viser sig ekstra meget i den forrygende finale, som ikke virker for tung, men er frisk og animerende, hvilket er en kunst i årgang 2017. (-2050+) *****

    93 points Robert Parker Wine Advocate: "The 2017 Vintage Port was sourced from vines averaging 35 years in age. It is a field blend aged for 18 months in old wood casks and six months in stainless steel. It comes in with 86 grams per liter of residual sugar—well on the drier side. If you're wondering what you get by trading up from the more-open LBV, the answer is simple: this has more power, a different style, more lift to the fruit. It's darker in color too, if you care. This is designed to be at its best some years from now, not to be at peak today or in the immediate future. You may not like it any better now or a few years later, but the final answer for this wine will only come in 15 years or so. They will separate more in time. (This actually seemed a lot closer to the LBV, as that showed well on the second day tasted and this Vintage Port was open for four.) For now, it is less a matter of a difference in quality than a completely different stylistic experience, although I do think this is better, and 2017 is a better vintage as well.

    Today, though, this is about potential. There is nothing generous about it. Intense, precise and focused, this shows fine fruit and even better structure, but it finishes hard and tight. The mid-palate is average in depth, but the structure and fruit profile are superb. It does lean a little to the austere side. If you like them that way, it is a terrific value point in this fine 2017 vintage. It has notably blossomed since I first saw it before bottling, at least in a certain sense. It shows off its balance and structure far better now. On the other hand, in terms of expression of fruit, it is, if anything, harder to read now. That would be my remaining question. Ultimately, though, it deserves an uptick. It may one day get another, but let's remain a little conservative."
    Lukkemetode: Korkprop
    Alkohol: 20%
    Jordbund: Skifer
    Indeholder Sulfitter




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