2010 Battenfeld-Spanier, Sekt "Grande Cuvée"

Stammende fra kalkstenen i Hohen-Sülzen, hvor HO Spanier plantede champagne-kloner af Chardonnay i 1994. Gæret i tonneaux og senere lagret hele 13 år inden degorgering med 2,2 g/l dosage, er dette spektakulær Sekt! Blændende aromatisk med citrus, våd kridt, nødder, bagværk, brioche, lakrids, honning og glimt af mandarin, viser den smagen enorm friskhed, aromatiske dybde fra drømmeland og ægte kalkstensfasthed i den salt-friske finale. Dette er et kæmpeudråbstegn for hvad der kan lade sig gøre i Tyskland! (-2030+) *****

96 points Robert Parker Wine Advocate: "Disgorged after 13 years sur lattes in May this year, the intensely yellow-colored 2010 Grande Cuvée Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut is deep, intense and rich on the beautifully matured yet fine and brioche-scented nose that reveals autolysis aromas more than any features of the late-ripening, high-acid vintage. On the palate, this is a lean yet rich and intense sparkling wine that reveals all the features we love late-disgorged Champagnes for. This is Chardonnay from pure limestone rocks in the southern part of Rheinhessen, and it combines its textural and aromatic richness with maturity and the steely vitality of the 2010 vintage. The finish is not austere anymore but still gives an idea of how challenging the wine must have been in its—almost still ongoing—youth and how great the faith—or the hope—of H. O. Spanier that something great would come of it one day. As is well known, faith moves not just mountains but also dwarves (in German, "zwerge” means "dwarves" and rhymes with "berge,” or "mountains," the actual object of this bon mot), and lo and behold: the wine is a character actor with the personality of the challenging vintage. It's very long and intense on the finish without ever being alcoholic, sweet or even remotely charming. Instead, it is all the more salty and ultimately a high mass of limestone in the southern, eternally hilly Rheinhessen"