2017 Van Zeller's, Curriculum Vitae (C.V.) Branco

Med hvid Bourgogne som forbillede laver Cristiano Van Zeller den fadlagrede storvin fra meget højtliggende marker. Lagret i knap 10 måneder i 80% ny franske fade, viser den en næse i topklasse med superbt fad, citrus, blomter, æbler, liljer og friske ferskner. I smagen er vinen helt harmonisk og afrundet. Den breder sig smukt og kærtegnende ud over tungen i et fyldig og givende billede, inden fuldmoden og præcis syre giver fokus og renhed ud i den meget vedholdende finale. Endnu en meget, meget smuk udgave. (-2027+) ****

93-95 points RobertParker: ” The 2017 Branco CV is one of Portugal's priciest whites but typically one of its most interesting. It is a selection of the best barrels, a field blend from old vines (80 years or so, heavy on Viosinho, Rabigato, Códega and Gouveio, among others) aged for nine months in 80% new French oak. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol. Not quite bottled when seen (out of barrel, in tank and the final blend), this is probably the best of the whites this issue, showing nice concentration, fine focus—and a bit of an oakier demeanor. That will be absorbed in time, as this has both the acidity and the mid-palate concentration (probably not the best ever in concentration but still good) to develop in the cellar. Far too unevolved just now, it and you will be best served if you let this sit in the cellar for a couple of years. "